Female Forces in Fashion
While the fashion industry is heavily marketed towards women, and many women work in the industry, its highest level of executives is still seen as a boys’ club. In recent years, however, more and more women have proven to be forces to be reckoned with, not just because they’re great at their job, but because they work to initiate larger change in the industry.
Rihanna: Designer and Founder, FENTY; Savage x Fenty; Fenty Beauty
Photo: LVMH
Rihanna has been a force in the music industry since she first arrived on the scene in 2005, but with her Savage x Fenty and FENTY lines, she’s proven to be a true force in the fashion industry. While Victoria’s Secret has been criticized for its lack of diversity and representation, Rihanna managed to shift the conversation in lingerie with the 2018 launch of Savage x Fenty. Designed with the idea of “exploring and celebrating women of all different shapes and bodies,” Savage x Fenty’s affordable, size inclusive line quickly amassed fans. In the Savage x Fenty presentations, Rihanna’s managed to reinvent what some believed to be dead, televised lingerie shows. Available for streaming with Amazon Prime Video, the Savage x Fenty shows are innovative, inclusive, and filled with celebrity cameos like Lizzo, Demi Moore, and Paris Hilton.
Another major feat for Rihanna: she is the first woman of color at the top of an LVMH house, with the 2019 launch of her ready-to-wear label FENTY. Not only is FENTY the first fashion brand launched from scratch by LVMH since Christian Lacroix in 1987, but it continues to push boundaries and reimagine the luxury market from its business model to its focus on highlighting inclusivity.
Maria Grazia Chiuri: Creative Director of Womenswear, Dior
Photo: Vogue
Previously the co-creative director of Valentino, alongside Pierpaolo Piccioli, Maria Grazia Chiuri did the unthinkable when she left the partnership in 2016 to go solo as the first-ever female head of womenswear design at Christian Dior. Under her leadership, Dior reinstated its iconic Saddle Bag in 2018, which became the “It-bag” amongst celebrities and influencers. Dior also saw a fifteen percent increase in sales in 2019.
But where Grazia Chiuri really stands out is her unapologetic, feminist-focused fashion shows. Drawing inspiration from the 1971 essay “Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists,” written by Linda Nochlins, Dior’s Spring 2018 show handed out copies of the essay and printed the title onto T-shirts. The Spring 2020 show acknowledged classic representations of goddesses throughout history, in front of a backdrop that read “What If Women Ruled The World.” Most recently, Dior’s Fall 2020 show featured signs, designed by female artist Claire Fontaine, that read “Consent,” “When Women Strike The World Stops,” and more. In 2019, Grazia Chiuri was recognized for her efforts and awarded the Legion of Honor, France’s highest civilian distinction, from Marlène Shiappa, the country’s gender equality minister.
Carly Cushnie: Designer and Co-Founder, Cushnie
Photo: Cushnie
After graduating from Parsons, with internships at Proenza Schouler, Donna Karen, and Oscar de la Renta, Carly Cushnie had a choice to make: get a job working at a fashion house or go off and start her own label. That’s when Cushnie decided to start Cushnie et Ochs with her classmate Michelle Ochs. Aside from their sleek, minimalist designs made to serve the modern woman, Cushnie and Ochs were also known for being advocates for women in the workplace, frequently sharing their story with the hopes it would inspire women to follow their own career goals.
In 2018, the relationship had run its course and Ochs left the brand. However, Cushnie didn’t let this change discourage her; rather she took the change in stride, rebranded, and became the majority owner, Creative Director, and CEO of the company, now known as Cushnie. With a focus on fit, Cushnie continued to grow the brand and won the attention of iconic women such as Michelle Obama, Beyonce, Jennifer Lopez, Ashley Graham, and Lupita Nyong’o. Not only that, but as one of the few Black designers in the luxury industry, Cushnie works to break preconceptions about what she will do and acts as an example that other women can aspire to.
Aurora James: Founder and Creative Director, Brother Vellies
Photo: Vogue
If you haven’t heard of Aurora James, you’d definitely recognize her, or at least the illustration of her, that was on the cover of Vogue’s September 2020 Issue. James is the Founder and Creative Director of the footwear and handbag brand Brother Vellies. She is the second designer to ever be featured on the cover, following Stella McCartney in December 2019.
James started her brand as a way to support South African, Kenyan, and Moroccan artisans. While there are a lot of charitable shoe brands out there, James was motivated to start her brand as she believes “giving someone a handout isn’t as empowering as giving someone a job.” Not only is Brother Vellies’ design studios in Africa inclusive, employing people of all genders, sexual orientations, backgrounds, and tribes, but the small artisan-based business is inherently sustainable. James’ most recent venture was creating the 15 Percent Pledge. As Black people make up almost fifteen percent of the U.S. population, the 15 Percent Pledge is an initiative to create long-term change and call major retailers to commit at least fifteen percent of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses.
Photo: @aurorajames
Tory Burch: Founder, Designer, and Executive Chairman, Tory Burch; Founder, Tory Burch Foundation
Photo: Tory Burch
Tory Burch created her eponymous brand in 2004 and has been one of the most recognizable women in the fashion industry ever since. When she was starting out, Burch faced obstacles including managing work-life balance and securing funding.
Learning from these challenges, Burch wanted to support other female entrepreneurs by launching the Tory Burch Foundation in 2009. Since then, the foundation developed programs with Bank of America and Goldman Sachs that invest in the success and sustainability of women-owned small businesses. Burch explains, “It’s not about charity. It’s about helping to empower women to help themselves. By providing resources and tools, we can level the playing field for women entrepreneurs, and helping them to grow their businesses benefits their families, their communities and, in turn, all of us.” The foundation also recently launched the #EmbraceAmbition initiative, which calls to change the stigma around women being ambitious.